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Please note, this should require two persons, unless you can make sure the hoses STAY where they're supposed to be, and have enough fluid for an error margin (slow getting around!). Expericenced person(s) only! I still suggest TWO people!
Once you have changed the Filter, and added fluid like a normal Trans-fluid and filter change, there is still up to 75% of the original fluid left in the transmission, most of it in the Torqie Converter. You can't just remove the fluid from the converter, then place it EMPTY back into the transmission, it won't work. Nor can you simply remove the return line and pump it all out, and exect to just put all new fluid in. There MUST be fluid in the Converter in order for the pumps to circulate the fluid.
This sure beats having to pay $75.00 or more in labor and material costs
to have a dealer or automotive shop do it for you.
Two 5-10 gallon containers (depending upon how much fluid you are going to cycle through) Remember, four quarts to a gallon, or 3.7 U.S. liters per gallon.
If you have a transmission cooler AFTER the rad, allow for 1.5 extra
quarts at top-off.
1. Raise the front end, apply the ER brake FIRMLY, and chock the back
tires! You will be placing the vehicle in gear while
the front end is raised up!
a. Start the car, and place into reverse to make SURE
it will not move, then shut it off, and back into neutral.
2. Fill one of the containers with 13 or 14 quarts (save at least one/two
quarts for top-off!) of transmission fluid; you are going
to cycle it through the transmission.
3. Locate the transmission cooling line going INTO the radiator (This
is where the fluid enters the RAD to be cooled),
remove and place it into the EMPTY container.
Fluid will begin to drain out, so be quick about it! Fluid will als
drain
out of the LOWER rad, this is why we are jackin'
the front end up a bit (so put something on the ground to get it!)
4. Locate the RETURN line for the transmission (where the fluid exits
the rad.back to the transmission), remove it and place it
into the FULL container of transmission fluid. Again,
fluid will back fill into the FULL container, so be quick about it!
Also, since this is off now (both ends open), the
fluid can freely drain from the lower rad. If at all possible, the
full container
can be raised six inches HIGHER then the empty,
this will put less stress on the pumps (which is why when you DO hook
up a secondary cooler, they tell you to place the
return line at the BOTTOM so it's aided by gravity).
5. Make sure someone can HOLD the hoses in these containers, or clamp
them on so they do NOT fly out! Depending upon
the condition of your pumps, the pressure can cause
the hose to the empty tank to fly back out.
6. Have one person Start the vehicle, and place into DRIVE, while the
other holds the hoses in place, and monitors the
fluid levels. You do not need to gas it at
all, but run it through reverse as well, and back to drive.
The other person will watch as the fluid begins to circulate through the transmission. As the empty container fills up, the other will begin to drain. This is circulating all NEW fluid through the transmission.
Once you can see all the contaminated fluid has left the transmission (should take about eight quarts minimum), have the other person shut the car off (when the one container is going to run out), and you quickly connect the hoses back to where they belong, and clamp!
7. Now lower the vehicle, start the engine (ER brake still on)
put into drive, and check the fluid level at the dip-stick, and top
off if needed.
Like mentioned before, when you take your car in for a Trannie fluid and filter change, you are only changing what is in the transmission pan. There is still fluid in the transmission (0.5-1 quart), most being in the Torque Converter (3-4 quarts). And, if you have a secondary cooler AFTER the rad, there is some in there also. So, you can have as much as 5-6 quarts of trasnmission fluid left.
This means, there will definately be old, or contaminated fluid left in the transmission, which will mix with the new fluid, and that will still cause a break down in viscosity quicker than the first time it was changed. A ratio of 3:1 or 3:1.5, 3 being left-over fluid, and the 1 or 1.5 being what you just added.
HEAT is what kills automatic transmissions, and fluid viscosity breakdown is the lead cause in overheating. Your transmission could be overheating and you will not even know it, till it is too late. For full protection, use synthetic fluid.
The coolant lines going onto the radiator will only cool the trasnmission to that of your normal engine operating temperature. If your engine tempurature is higher than normal, your transmission temp. will also be higher. THAT is not good for your transmission.
The amount left behind in the RAD or COOLER is nothing compared to what
would normally be left in a normal change.
I wouldn't worry about getting the all fluid out of the lower rad,
or secondary cooler of you have it. However, you can
do it by modifying your hoses.
How do I do that?
Leave the TO RAD/COOLER hose connected, remove the RETURN line as normal,
but you will have to ADD a piece of hose to where you just removed the
RETURN line so fluid can pump ALL the way through the system. The
new section of hose goes into the EMPTY container, and the return line
into the FULL.
I have mine going through the RAD first, COOLER second, then return to the transmission. SO, I would leave ALL those other hoses in place, and only remove the RETURN line from the cooler. Then, I'd clamp a section of hose to where I just removed the it from the cooler, and place that into the EMPTY container, and the return line into the FULL container.
Sounds confusing, just remember the direction of flow!